Jan 10, 11, 12, 13 (Agra, Bisauli, Bareilly)

(Post by Kristie)

Jan 10, cont. (Agra)
Last I left off, we had visited Agra Fort. I went back and reread what I wrote - I must have been in a hurry because what I saw really wasn't adequate. We only saw 25 percent of it -- the other 75 is Army-controlled. And what we saw was huge, so I'm not sure I can even comprehend how large it really is. It's massive. The super short version of the story goes that the man who built the Taj Mahal for his favorite wife had further plans to create an identical masoleum on the other side of the river, only in black marble instead of white. Because the construction of the Taj essentially bankrupted the community, his family took matters into their own hands, locking him up in one of the wings of Agra Fort. It sounds harsh, but wasn't when you see the digs -- beautiful white marble with colored intricate inlays similar to those at the Taj. A beautiful balcony from which you could presumably see for miles before the smog of pollution. We couldn't see it, but on a clear day, you can see the Taj Mahal from there -- so it's said that he spent his remaining days gazing at it. After his death, he was buried with his beloved wife at Taj.

We were quite amazed at the height of the railings at both the Taj Mahal and Agra Fort. I am not exaggerating - they are only 2 feet off of the ground It would be so very easy to lose your footing and stumble to your death below. To all the moms shuddering with worry: we were very careful.

So after Agra Fort, we went shopping at a high-end department store that sold fine Kashmir-made rugs, jewelry, pashminas and marble items. After feeding us a lunch of grilled chicken (some of the first non-veg we've eaten), we were given a quick lesson on how the rugs are created, and then were given the State Fair Varied Industries Building demonstration on how durable and indestructable and beautiful the rugs are. So if you're not believing the salesman at this point, you will once you feel them. They are soft - so soft. Even the ones with lower knot counts. The guest home we were staying at had several of them, and I can vouch that they feel nice on the toes! A few members of the group were convinced they had to have one of these pricey heirloom-quality (and did I mention beautiful and indestructable?) pieces, although I'll let those parties communicate that on their own, either via telephone, face to face, or via a quick spousal check of the credit card balance. You'll love them!

We tried to do a little market shopping after that, but since none of us knew exactly what we wanted, in which size color and weight, and how many, and how much we were willing to pay, we were quickly exhausted and gave up on the idea. (Browsing does not exist in India.)

Later in the evening we were invited to the Rotary meeting held at the Agra Club, which was a colonial-era club for the British. India claimed it after the British left,and it is now an exclusive club that is very expensive to join. We've gotten mixed stories, but the one we are believing for obvious bragging rights is that we were only the second group of foreigners to be allowed into the club. Until December 2006, foreigners were not allowed into the building. During the meeting, the lights went out during my little presentation. Here's where I learned that I am unable to speak when it's pitch black - coworkers and friends, you might keep this knowledge handy when I'm being verbose. Thankfully our Rotarian friends pulled out their cell phones and illuminated the room until the lights came back on.

Jan 11 (Agra to Firozabad)
We left Agra on the morning of the 11th and headed to Firozabad - the "Glass City." We were greeted at the hospital that the Rotarians help run. The hospital provides inexpensive cataract surgeries -- much needed in the area because those who work in the glass factories often develop cataract problems at a much faster rate than most.

We then visited a few glass factories, which was another surreal experience. We are going to try to post a little video at some point - but may not be able to until we return. It is incredibly hard, hot manual labor -- hundreds of men performing minute tasks in the creation of chandelier light bulbs, glassware, bottles, vases, beads, paperweights, etc. Many don't wear shoes, no one wears protective gear, I didn't see safety glasses in the whole place. We asked about this and were told that the glass blowers refuse to wear them - it makes it too difficult to do their job well. It's a well-oiled machine whose parts happen to be human. These workers make anywhere from 400-1000 Rupees a day, which roughly translates to about $10-20. I will never sip wine from a Target-purchased wine glass and not think of this place.

We then had lunch with the Firozabad Rotarians on the lawn of the Firozabad club, then came back in the evening for dinner there as well. We were first served snacks in an upstairs room - chicken sausage bites and roasted peanuts with cilantro and onions which you were expected to flip into your mouth with a spoon without touching your lips. The rest of us did a pretty good job, Jason ended up with a spoon for himself.

Jan 12 (Firozabad to Bareilly by way of Bisauli)
This day was an intense road day - a long 5-hour trip over bumpy roads. I can't remember if I've described our vehicle - it really is quite nice. It's a Chevy Travera, I don't think they're sold in the states -- it's a mid-size SUV, but has two jump seats in the way back so seats 7 comfortably. (Comfort is a relative term.) We had a Firozabad Rotarian accompanying us, so it was a full load. The good thing is that it gave us some time to rest a little before the District Conference in Bareilly, and if you're not tired, there is ALWAYS something to look at. In fact, you miss things even when you're paying attention. We have an excellent driver, who has become the 6th member of the team, and he makes the ride as enjoyable as possible while keeping us out of massive potholes, away from large vans and buses, apart from the vehicles and the people and the rickshaws, all while swerving to avoid the cows that roam freely and know they are untouchable.

For lunch we stopped at the Bisauli Rotary Club for another outdoor lunch, which is really such a lovely treat. We've been colder than we thought here, so afternoons spent outdoors with the sun warming us is very nice. After the meeting, we piled back in the car and headed to Bareilly - another 2 hours - for the Rotary District Conference. We knew we'd be seeing a lot of the Rotarians we had met along the way, and were excited to reconnect with our gracious hosts from Aligarh.

After arriving in Bareilly, we checked into our hotel, and all agreed this was a little slice of heaven in the middle of the trip. Our hosts have been absolutely fabulous, but a little time in a hotel, where we don't have to feel like we're putting someone out, is a nice change of pace.

We then headed to the pre-conference dinner, where we got to see some of the friends we've collected along the way on this trip. It was fun to be in such a foreign place, but actually know a few people!

Jan 13 (Bareilly)
Whew - I've gotten us to today. We had tea in our rooms at the hotel (I will forever be craving this tea when I get back, I'm sure of it) then headed to the conference for breakfast, where they had a man frying eggs in pure fat with several spices sprinkled on - I think I could have eaten 4. My heart appreciates the fact that I only had one.

The conference kicked off about an hour late, but operates in much the same way that conferences do in the States. Except that instead of sitting on hard chairs, there were about a hundred love seats all lined up. One thing that is quite different is cell phone use. Here it is quite common for phones to ring during an entire presentation -- and for the phone's owner to stare at it quizzically before answering or shutting off the sound. A few even take calls during the presentation, without getting up to leave. Compounded by the fact that EVERYONE has a cell phone, it makes for a lot of mid-conference activity swirling about.

And that gets us to here. We are about to get something to eat, and then rest up before another conference dinner tonight. It's more of a formal affair, so we're looking forward to stepping it up a notch. I may actually do my hair.

Love to all - keep the posts coming - we love them! Sorry no photos -we're having trouble getting them uploaded.