Jason's thoughts on our arrival and driving in India

(Posting by Jason)
Arriving in New Delhi Airport and our subsequent trip to Aligarh was an experience beyond written description. The airport was pleasant enough despite what I had read and heard would be a constant struggle through hordes of taxi drivers, security, porters, pickpockets, and scam artists. We were greeted by our host and driver, who guided us through the chaos and directly to our awaiting people mover and Landcruiser looking Chevy vehicle that does not exist in the states. The driver and several porters with dollar signs in their eyes and outstretched palms, loaded our baggage to the roof rack of the vehicle.

Now is where I should describe and list the sights and sounds of an Indian roadway. I could go into great detail about the cars, buses, cows, big diesel transport trucks, old bajaj scooters, royal enfield motorcycles, rickshaws, buffalo pulling carts, bicycles, monkeys, and pedestrians that were crammed sometimes 12 wide on a 2 lane immediately as we pulled away from the airport. I could try to describe the sounds as every vehicle all around us constantly give short or long bursts of there horns. I could try to differentiate between the musical and deafening horns of the ornately decorated and individually hand painted buses and trucks. I might allude to the plethora of music coming from the radios of the hundreds of cars pushing in around us. I could try to describe this to you. But it would be pointless, because I read the sections in books that describe Indian traffic and I was in total shock.

I also read travel journal of a friend who tried to describe what she experienced on the roads in India. Her writing was detailed and eloquent and I felt prepared me well. I was mistaken. There is no way to put in words the video game style driving tactic that every driver on the road employs. There are almost no rules of the road, or if there are, they are so foreign that I am unable to recognize them . Which must be the case because we spent the next 4 hours or so weaving, dodging, braking and accelerating in and around vehicles ranging from mopeds, to elephants, to 40 buses carrying triple their capacity. We would we be traveling at 60 mph in the opposing lane with 2 or three other vehicles heading the wrong direction passing a mass of other vehicles traveling slower or stopped in the correct lane only to squeeze into a gap impossibly small split seconds before coming face to face with a convoy coming from the other direction.

This “pole position” meets “frogger” style of driving is practiced by every driver in this city of 12 to 14 million in the country of probably 1.4 billion people by every single driver on the road all day every day as well as by us for the entirety of the 4 hour drive from New Delhi to Aligarh. You may think you understand, you may try to compare it to a new your city cab ride or rush hour traffic on the 10 in Los Angeles, but you have no idea. You would be better off imagining trying to make your way through the crowd in front of the grandstand on the busiest day at the Iowa state fair. Only instead of shuffling along people would be driving buses and tractors cars scooters and such. Nevermind. I can’t describe it.

I will say this…while it was frightening for us, our driver never got stresses, upset, angry. Our guide calmly slept in the back seat. I did not see a single accident, sign of anger or aggression. Not even a hint of road rage on the entire 150 kilometer trip. It must work for them somehow.


Upon Arriving in Aligarh we were met by a delegation of local Rotarians family and friends who will serve as our hosts and guides for the duration of our visit. They welcomed us like dignitaries and treated us as family. Shortly after arriving we sat down for a home cooked lunch that was better than any Indian food I have had in any restaurant anywhere at any price ever. One of our hosts told me that the Indians say “The way to please a guest’s heart is through their stomach”. These are extremely hospitable and kind people. They have a wonderful trip planned for us.

I would write more about the official dinner and reception, but it is 1 am and we have an appointment for tea at 7:30 am.